Satire on Consumerism and Creativity’s Collapse into Commerce
MILAN, September 2025 – For Spring/Summer 2026, Avavav presents its new collection in an unusual setting — not where fashion is born, but where it struggles to survive: the outlet store, fashion’s ICU.
In a conceptual lookbook and short film, mannequin-like models stand stiffly while crowds of shoppers rush around them, grabbing clothes covered in sale tags. It’s a bleak backdrop for new designs — and that’s exactly the point. The show, titled “Soon on Sale,” is a satire about a designer’s biggest fear: ending up on the sale rack. The irony is clear — discounts are seen as failure, yet the fashion system relies on them. Even selling just 55% of items at full price is considered good.
Designers are forced to create nonstop, speeding up the fashion cycle until creativity is drained away. For small independent brands, this pressure is not only unsustainable — it’s harmful. It wastes resources, cheapens the work, and leaves little space for true creativity. The SS26 collection takes Avavav’s signature mix of drippy goth streetwear and experimental tailoring and pushes it further — reflecting the constant demand for “something new.” One mannequin-like model wears a bright red sequin dress that perfectly shapes the body — until you see the bold print on the back: “80% SALE.” The message is sharp and ironic — beauty immediately undercut by devaluation.
A grey hoodie dress combines casual and sculptural elements, with puffed short sleeves and a circular skirt that create an odd but eye-catching shape. Avavav’s famous smocked pants return in exaggerated form, pooling on the floor like a puddle. Faux-fur accessories — from top hats to fox tails — bring quirky retro flair to modern streetwear looks.
Creative Director Beate Skonare Karlsson reflects: “Recently I’ve been thinking a lot about the paradox of being a ‘free creator’ in a system that constantly reminds you of its rules. Without even noticing, I’ve caught myself following them — investing in shows I can’t justify as a small independent brand, designing at a speed I don’t enjoy, watching pieces end up on sale before they’ve even hit the shelves. It’s almost funny, if it wasn’t so exhausting. I think many of us are stuck in that contradiction: wanting to create something authentic, while adjusting ourselves to fit into a framework that was built by big brands. This collection is my way of playing with that tension. By presenting new designs in a space that already looks discarded, I wanted to highlight how fragile value has become. It’s sad, but also a little ridiculous — and somewhere in that mix of exhaustion and humour is where I find myself right now.”
First shown in SS25, the rib-cage motif now becomes a clear brand signature. It appears everywhere — sprayed onto crochet, cut into hoodies, patched on shirts, and slashed across a skeletal maxi dress. It’s not new this season — and that’s the point. Footwear turns surreal: the Luge heel takes inspiration from high-speed sports gear but exaggerates it into a 22-centimeter spike — more parody than performance. The Moonrubber shoes evolve into cosmic boots that look ready for a walk on the Milky Way. With SS26, Avavav exposes the absurd cycle of fearing the sale rack while depending on it — and the damage that mindset does to creativity. It’s also why the brand skipped a runway show this season: endless spectacle can’t coexist with genuine artistic integrity.
The result is both sad and funny, serious yet playful — but most of all, honest. Set in fashion’s ICU, Avavav presents something truly alive: a refusal to burn out, and a reminder that even when the system is failing, vision can never be discounted.
Instagram: @avavav
